2006 William Hatcher Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
The fruit reveals the wine to the winemaker. Accordingly, the winemaker shepherds the wine rather than makes it. Notably, there is no word for “winemaker” in French, Italian or Spanish: one is a vigneron, viticoltore or vinicultor, the idea being that the wine is made in the vineyard.
In a given vintage, the optimal blend may comprise only half or so of the barrels I make. As with the preparation of a fine meal, it is a question of what precisely informs the whole. Too much of the finest ingredient may overwhelm the balance. Thus, REX HILL and A to Z are always blessed with some beautiful barrels.
2006 produced a voluptuous wine, wanting for more oak than I normally apportion to my wines. Thus, it has been held in bottle for nearly two years to allow the oak to wed, which is now promising a long and propitious matrimony.
The nose is a rush of black cherries, plums and berries with notes of rose, violets, cedar and vanilla. Hints of mocha, white pepper and tobacco accent the rich fruit that swells on the mid-palate. On the long finish, fine tannins and a firm backbone ensure that the wine will develop for many years. Best 2010-2016.
The mild early spring gave way to an unusually warm and dry May with the temperature exceeding 90° mid-month. After a spectacular thunderstorm on the 21st, things settled down and the summer followed its Western Oregon temperate norm with the exception of three straight 100° days in late July. A downpour on the 30th was the last rain we would see until Labor Day. At that juncture, continued cool weather would have brought a vintage similar to the ample but refined 2002. Rather, the days warmed to what one would more expect at the height of summer before cooling into the 70’s on the last day of the month, not to exceed 80° again. The result was luxurious, ripe fruit but good acidity in those grapes picked at higher elevations. It was a year that I was glad for such a vineyard that I have reserved for the fine acidity it brings.
